AH, THE PALETTE IS CLEARED

 I have to say that after all these years, these moments remain some of my favorite.

 

 In case you haven't been following, this is my own horoscope woven in 8/2 Tencel. I love to experiment with weft colors and ended up using a variegated Tencel that gives and added dimension. I am wearing it as I write. I am loving that Tencel!

TENCELICIOUS

 I had such a good time with the last Tencel horoscope weaving that I posted it on FB and got a request for another. For some reason, the image of the weaving in process did not upload, so you will just see---coming down the home stretch (above) and my favorite part of the process (below). It really is a good thing that I cut with my left hand, so I can take a picture with my right.

 And of course, my favorite pictures -- weaving details!

The is before laundering---measurements--17 1/2" wide x 113" long. I will post the after dimensions.
Now I am jazzed to weave my own horoscope in Tencel. I decided to make the planets as stripes instead of ridges because of the tension problems I had with the last piece. I am happy to report than I had no tension problems with this piece.

BOTANICAL WEAVING

Way back in the 50's and 60's, weaving with weeds and sticks was very popular. Of course, I had to give it a try. Below is the weed weaving I created in 1961 while I was a student at Rhode Island School of Design. I had someone help construct a real frame loom, and then I used phragmites (those fluffy top reeds that grow in profusion on the East Coast) . I gave this piece to my mother, who kept in hanging in her apartment. Imagine my amazement when I discovered how wonderful the hanging looked 52 years later.

The hanging looks good hanging either horizontal or vertical and the dimensions are 25"x 48"



 I thought I would create some small botanical weavings for the holidays---using dried grasses and flowers mostly from The Garden of One Thousand Buddhas. I am using jute for my  6" wide warp  with dried lavender, lily pods, willow, and I'm not sure what other things are called.

          I just love all the subtle color changes. It is refreshing after all the color I usually work with.
                               
                                        

 Below is catmint and mullen combined with willow and ornamental grasses.
 

These little beauties are so much and easy to make that they make good projects to teach beginners as well as making charming gifts. The assortment below can be seen (and purchased) at Meadowsweet Herbs in Missoula, Montana

The other interesting aspect of Botanical Weaving is that gardeners can supply their own material from their gardens as a way to remember some of their special plants. Some plants can be woven in bloom and then dried in the weaving. (so you watch the weaving change over time). Those brown balls are the seed heads of bee-balm, one of my favorites. And there is no rule that says you can't combine a little leftover ikat yarn in the weft.

Tencel---Learning and Teaching

What promises to be another phenomenal Weaving Conference begins tomorrow! Interestingly enough, this Conference is taking place on the University of Montana campus (in walking distance from my soon to be former residence (but that is a post for another day).

I will be teaching 2 one-day workshops: Intentional Design and Almost Ikat. I decided to challenge myself a bit with the Almost Ikat workshop and try a new fiber (for me)--TENCEL.
My interest in tencel stems from the fact it is produced in Canada and dyed in the USA. WEBS carries an interesting array of colors, including many space-dyed options. With not a moment to spare (after returning from the Alberta Conference), I ordered up a box of assorted colors which arrived last Thursday (waiting on my doorstep after I returned home from hanging my solo show which opened on Friday evening. This, too, is a topic for another post!).


As you can see, these are not my usual colors (except for the red and turquoise, which I ordered because two of the colors in the main palette were currently not in stock). The colors were actually selected by a client who has commissioned a Woven Words scarf (so I am really "killing" 3 birds with one stone/cone of yarn).

The students in the Almost Ikat class will be winding a warp using these very yarns, so I thought I should give it a test run. I wound this warp on Sunday, a 6" scarf, sett at 24 epi.

I tested all the colors in the weft---including some tencel yarn I had from "Just Our Yarn" to see if I could combine it with the yarn from Webs.


I cut off a portion of the warp and laundered it, so I could see how a finished scarf would look. Below is how it came out of the dryer with no pressing.


With a 1-day workshop, the students will just be able to wind their scarf warp to take home and weave, so I will only be able to send images of the various warps. Since the scarf above was purely a test of fibers, the design is not as powerful as will be all of the student warps.

So if you are signed up for this class, be prepared for a rockin' good time with Tencel! Plus I have some surprises in store (grin)

Problem Solved

The secret to posting with images is to use Explorer rather than FireFox.

I am trying out various colors and formats to see what I like. I am running into a problem I will soon figure out is how to move the images around. The usual cut and paste doesn't seem to work.

I don't know if anyone recalls that I was working on the chenille Color Horoscope Weaving. Well, I cut it off the loom and draped it around myself (as I love to do)

This looks so different from my own horoscope weaving! I love it.

One of the things I do differently than most people working with chenille is that I braid my fringe. I figure this step takes me close to 16 hours, but I generally put on a good trashy audio book and braid away.

Here is the happy recipient who made me promise to cut her head out of the picture.
I know you can see the difference in the luster and drape of the chenille after laundering.

How I launder: I toss into a cold water wash, let the machine agitate 5 times, turn off and let sit for a half hour. Drain out the wash water, fill with rinse (add softener if desired), let agitate 5 times, turn off and let sit for another half hour, drain, and spin. Remove from the washer and toss in the dryer with 3 tennis balls. Dry on gentle, checking from time to time between biting finger nails. The chenille looks really bad when it comes out of the wash, but something magical happens in the dryer.

Chenille, The Pet You Don't Have to Feed

Actually, this blanket was a commissioned piece entitled THE RESULTS OF HAVING FALLEN INTO A PIT OF CHENILLE

Each square is the sample end of a chenille scarf I wove during a five year period leading up to the millennium.

What I know about weaving with chenille I learned during my scarf making madness. I also wove many Color Horoscope Weaving Shawls. In fact that is how I fell into the pit of chenille. I had stayed away from chenille for years hearing so many terrible stories of the dreaded "worming". Plus I really didn't think chenille would wear very well.

I was teaching a Color Horoscope Weaving Workshop at a yarn store sometime in the last century and they happened to stock a great palette of chenille yarn. The owner suggested I try it out. She said I could wind the warp (12 colors) and then weigh the warp and pay me for the total weight (came out to be about $80). Normally the yarn comes on 1 1/2 lb cones; and since I need 12 colors---well, that's mighty pricey which was probably another reason I had never tried it before. To make a long story short, the shawl came out beautifully except for a few little structural glitches which caused to yarn to worm. (worming is a nightmarish un-weaving caused by:
1. not weaving tightly enough
2. not snugging your edges
3. having floats
4. having more than one warp end through a heddle

The trick seems to be that when you take the piece off the loom, it feels stiff and has a lousy drape.

I wish I knew exactly how this yarn is manufactured. I do know that there is tons of sizing in the yarn, and it is only after the finished piece is laundered that it morphs into a cloth that people can't resist petting as you pass them on the street.

I know I haven't yet answered ANY of the questions you asked, but 2 things have happened. It has gotten late, for one. And two, my USB port does not seem to be working and I can't get the images from my camera into the computer.

But looking back over those chenille years, I can really only remember one time when I had a warp end break while I was weaving. The 2 warp ends that broke in the piece I am weaving now broke close enough to the beginning of the piece that I was able to lay in a replacement thread and tie it onto the front bar.

So I guess the trick is to wind short warps. Mine are mostly 4 yds long. (just long enough for 1 scarf and a nice sized sample piece) Watch your yarn closely while winding the warp, keeping a sharp eye out for frayed or weak sections of yarn.

But here is the good news, that first shawl I re-wove (about 15 years ago), looks like I just wove it! Believe me when I tell you that I road tested that shawl thoroughly. I can't believe it still looks as fresh and new as the day I wove it.

When I first started using chenille, I was very careful about laundering, and I never put it in the dryer. Then I ran into a woman who was banging out chenille scarves by the dozens. She tossed them in the wash with nary a care, AND she tossed them into the dryer as well (with 3 tennis balls), so now I do too. If you were washing the pieces often, it might not be a great idea.

Once I get to the fringes on this new piece, I will show you how I do mine. I always braid chenille fringe. It takes forever, but it really makes the shawl. And I have a special little non-knot, that is elegant beyond compare.

The ikat scarf on the wall will have to wait, but I won't forget.

Chenille, My Old Friend

Here I am having taught 2 workshop already this year, about to teach one this weekend (all 3 local), and preparing to head down to San Luis Obispo to teach a new (in name and focus) workshop called INTENTIONAL DESIGN. I will talk more about this in another post, but one of the things I like to do before a workshop is to wind a warp and set up my loom while I focus on the upcoming workshop.

There are 18 students in SLO winding warps and setting up their looms as I write. They will arrive at the workshop ready to weave.



I thought the least I could do was to share their experience.


In the spirit of "multitasking, I decided to get started on a commission---a Color Horoscope Weaving in Rayon Chenille. For some reason, I started wearing my own Chenille Horoscope Weaving around town. I wove this piece about 15 years ago. It is sooo 20th century (grin). But to my amazement, folks in Missoula are crazy for chenille.


Another surprising fact about chenille is that my 15 year old shawl (which I have treated rather badly to see how it would hold up) looks brand new! In fact, I have it draped over my shoulders as I write.


Because of the thickness of the chenille, I have to wind the warp in 4 sections (pictured above). So to Patty (whose shawl this will become) and the Weavers Guild of San Luis Obispo (who are winding and threading), I dedicate my latest weaving efforts.

Stash Reduction/Stash Expansion: ZYG in 2012

How to achieve ZYG--Zero Yarn Growth:

I don't have a huge yarn stash, but I certainly do have one. Over the years, one acquires yarn to precious to use up or trade away. Because I have moved 3 times in as many years, I have de-stashed quite a bit, but still... The natural dyed silk (much of it 50/2) was custom dyed for me by Cheryl Kolander in the mid-80's. I have been carrying it around knowing that I would weave something with it some year. This will be the year!

There are at least 2 basic ways of approaching "what to make next".
1. I want to make a set of towels to match my kitchen. I decide what fiber, colors and amounts I need and then I shop for that yarn.
2. What can I make with the yarn that I have on hand.

Of course, there are variations, but basically that's it.

One of the techniques I use in managing "the yarn I have on hand" is to lay it out on the floor and start moving it around like a puzzle. I like to say that the yarn discusses what it wants to weave.


Sometimes these discussions can last for weeks. Both below and above show the beginning of a discussion.


Every time I weave something that reduces my stash, I will then weave something with new yarn. That way I will continue to support my yarn suppliers.

Onward to a Peaceful and Abundant new year!

Just Our Yarn Does it Again!

Several years ago, I came upon a lovely yarn company---JUST OUR YARN.

I wove a couple of delicious horoscope weavings and made some delightful wrappings with the yarn. I even overdyed in Turned Weft Ikat, and then I put the rest of the yarn away (I knew I had enough of another Color Horoscope Weaving). You know how it is when you want to hold back special yarn for a special project.

I had just enough of the ikat bits to frame each of the planets.


When I finished the weaving, I decided to wash it in the machine (I always do that), dry in the dryer (I always do that too), and then just wear it without pressing (I never do that)---just to road test it and see what happens.


Well, I think I have belatedly fallen in love with tencel! I wore like a dream. It didn't wrinkle anywhere near what I imagined, and what little it wrinkled just smoothed out when I draped it over a chair between wearings.


I know there is a lot of tencel yarn out there, but richness of colors in JUST OUR YARN is matchless! Brava!

I just spend far to long trying to find links to earlier posts showing my other cloth woven with the yarn. It turns out that I have been blogging a really long time, and my labeling system obviously leaves much to be desired. But if you have several hours with nothing to do, search through my archives (grin)

Weaving in the Garden---Preparations

For several days now I have fallen well below the learning curve as make the switch over to a laptop. However, Irene over at the Cotton Clouds Blog is going to beat the band. Take a look. It is fabulous!

It is now just about 36 hours until leave for Montana with so many chapters of the tale to tell.

So let me bring you somewhat up to date.

To create such a special weaving in a special place at a special time, I decided to use natural dyed silk. Of course Cheryl Kolander of Aurora Silk came to mind. In case you are not familiar with Cheryl, here she is:

Cheryl Kolander, who has created these colours, is the senior natural dyer in the world today. For 42 years she has practiced and perfected her art. A meditator since the age of 8, she has actively prayed and worked for peace all her life. She practices Thibetan Vajra Yoga in the Shakya tradition.

Cheryl lives at her Urban Peace Silk Farm in Portland, Oregon. She has written and published many books, including “A Silkworker's Notebook”, currently in its third edition; “Brilliant Colours with Natural Dyes”; “Dancing Darvisha”, pictures of Uzbekistan and inspired poems; “Lem'me Help” , a novel; “Working Words”, poetry of activism; and is currently working on “Stones that Talk”, Buddahs' Wisdom from the caves at Ellora, India.

Cheryl has raised four children and modestly supports herself and many others thru her small business “Aurora Silk”, a source for quality textile art materials, information and education, about natural textiles, natural dyes and especially Peace silk. (www.aurorasilk.com). As “Mama D.O.C.” (=”Mother, Doctor of Caring”) she does non-profit, natural health work in her community and around the world, with small, independent projects in the Dominican Republic, India and Uzbekistan. Cheryl has donated the dyework and the dyes for these colours: “Every action, every word, every thought creates its vibration, that flows out, continuously.”

Dyes used:

1 – Buddah's Yellow and 2 – Aurora Gold

Fusticwood from Cheryl's Dominican Republic Logwood Project – Eco harvest and Way Beyond Fair Trade.

3 – Ruddy Orange

Madder root from village plots in Turkey, part of a multi-national effort to restore the art of Natural dyed Turkish carpets. Organically raised, village produced.

4 – Scarlet, and 5 – Crimson, and 6 – Plum violet

Cochineal, the rare natural dye that comes from a domesticated insect. Raised in high mountain valleys of Peru and Chile, these sedentary scales live on prickly pear cactus, and are harvested at the end of their life cycle. Organically raised, women's farm co-op produced.

7- Purple

Logwood from Cheryl's Dominican Republic Logwood Project – Eco harvest and
Way Beyond Fair Trade.

8 – Dark Blue

Indigo, naturally fermented by Cheryl to make a permanent dye. This Indigo is raised by women farmers in El Salvador, and processed in vats built during Spanish colonial times. Organically raised, village produced.

9- Light Blue

Indigo, naturally fermented by Cheryl to make a permanent dye. This Indigo is from the oldest continuously producing Indigo farm in India. Organically raised, traditional farm produced.

10 – Blue Green, 11- Emerald Green 12- Spring Green

Indigo blue base, with varying amounts of Fusticwood yellow to make green.

Variegated colours: Indigo, Fusticwood, Cochineal

Colours are permanently fixed according to ancient techniques, using food grade alum and the nutritional supplemental minerals tin and iron. All these colours are good for the health of the wearer: physically, emotionally and mentally. All these colours benefit the planet and all its people: ecologically, economically and socially.

All Cheryl's dyework is a spiritual practice. These colours were begun on the Spring Equinox 2010 and completed for the Summer Solstice.

Cheryl will be lecturing at the silk painters international conference in Santa Fe .

What is there to say after that--except get started winding skeins into balls!

Cashmere Stash in Studio

Before I begin the weaving, I decided a complete inventory of my cashmere was necessary. I haven't weighed my stash, but it is juicy.


Since the warp is so busy, I think a neutral would be the best weft. I sent the picture below to Paula, the recipient, and she agreed that perhaps a solid black would be the best choice for weft.
So black it is. (By the way, the largest balls weigh about 2 oz) I know that knitters cringe at the idea storing yarn in balls because it removes the elasticity, but in weaving the elasticity is not a boon. Plus, the tight balls helps remove the crimp that comes with un-knitting.


So let the weaving begin! The looms were restless and decided to move around the room. Now Gary is facing North, and Grace thought it might be nice to be at a jaunty angle. The jury is still out on the move.

Here is a little peek at what I am working on that is not weaving. Since Weaving Spirit is a weaving blog, I am conflicted about posting my non-weaving divergences. Since I already have a second blog, Bonnie Inspired, I am not sure I have the energy to start up another.

Another Mother and a Bunch of Babies

Lunatic Fringe Yarns

proudly presents…

The Tubular Spectrum

12 Color Kit

$45

Designed especially for Bonnie Tarses’ horoscope workshop!

The kit contains 1 ½ ounces (400 yards) of each of these colors;

5 Purple

5 Red Purple

5 Red

10 Red

5 Yellow Red

10 Yellow Red

5 Yellow

5 Yellow Green

10 Green

10 Blue Green

10 Blue

10 Purple Blue

All of these brilliantly dyed mercerized 100% cotton yarns are from the Tubular Spectrum, our signature cotton yarn collection.

We also have weft yarns available in 20/2 mercerized cotton .

Black: 1# cones (8400 yards) for $24 and ½# cones (4200 yards) for $13.

Check our website for more information about these and other great yarns.

www.Lunaticfringeyarns.com

And speaking of Lavender Sachets--- I have sewn them all and am now in process of turning them


Trimming and turning has to be the very best step in a very long process. As I turn each one, I get to see them for the very first time as a single entity. (no 2 are alike, I love that!) You remember they are all from the same warp.

A BUNCH OF BABIES (grin)

I leave Friday and will be gone until the 14th. I will save the stuffing and hand stitching for my return. After all, that will give me a whole week before the Guild Sale.

Now A Step to the Side

I don't really understand why these pictures have come up in reverse order, but I don't have time to fiddle with it, or start over. I will just have to tell the story backwards. Here is a detail of what is currently on the loom. The warp is Bambu 12 doubled and sett at 20 epi. The weft is a variety of variegated 1300 rayon chenille.


This weaving is a commissioned Mobi-Q like the one I had recently made except this person is sensitive to wool, even cashmere.

I decided to move Gary. The picture below shows where Gary is now. I weave with my back to the window which gives me wonderful light during the day. The picture above shows the wall where the loom used to be. I would have been sitting where the baskets are. I am about to move the baskets to make room for the warping board which is located on the wall where Grace will go.

I'll show more pictures as I prepare for the arrival of Grace. She will return the week of November 2nd. She is still at St Mark's and will be there until after All Saints Day. It remains to be seen if there is really room for both looms in this space. They will have to discuss this amongst themselves. If they decide that one of them has to go, I will let you know.

Periodically I decide I should sell Gary. I write up a little pitch and put it out locally. Nobody has ever expressed an interest (except for someone else who has a Fireside loom and wants to sell theirs). I keep thinking the right person will step forward, someone who wants to be my apprentice, and they will "earn" the loom through their tireless assistance to me. That is my true desire.